The Breitling Premier returns

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The Breitling Premier returns

The Premier returns
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80 years after it first took the chronograph from tool watch to style statement
La Cote des Montres - March 21st, 2023

 
 
80 years after it first took the chronograph from tool watch to style statement.

Introducing six new Premier models, updated with a heritage-inspired design and equipped with the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. Their launch coincides with a new book chronicling the genesis of Breitling’s most collectible chronograph.

 
By 1943, Willy Breitling had built a name for himself as a maker of aircraft instrumentation and tool watches that met the functional needs of wartime. But the third-generation Breitling founder also dreamt of a time after the war, when utility would give way to unbridled optimism. With that future in mind, he designed a series of elegant chronographs and assigned them the best materials, the best finishings and the best calibers. He called his new line the Premier.

 

Reintroduced by Breitling in 2021, the Premier Heritage chronograph collection revived Willy’s dream of seeing the functional chronograph made undeniably elegant and infinitely wearable — in his words, “the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste.” Today, the Swiss watchmaker adds six new references to the Premier assortment, all of them powered by the self-winding Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01.

 
“We are committed to preserving Willy Breitling’s bold vision of combining the precision of a professional tool watch with the sophistication of a modern dress watch,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “The Premier embodied the hopeful energy that emerged in the postwar era, and we are proud to continue that tradition with a modern-retro version for our times.”

 


The height of precision,
 

innovation, and style  
 

Breitling’s specialty has always been the chronograph, and each of the brand’s three founding fathers had a role in shaping it. From the moment he started his business in 1884, Leon Breitling put his expertise into perfecting the pocket-watch timekeeper. His son Gaston introduced the first wrist-worn models that included an independent pusher at 2 o’clock. And his grandson Willy added the second pusher at 4 o’clock — establishing the form of the modern chronograph that is used across all of watchmaking today. Willy would then go on to take the family vision one step further, giving the chronograph style as well as function.

 
The new Premier B01 Chronograph 42 assortment also lives up to Willy Breitling’s uncompromising technical standards. The six models are powered by the self-winding Breitling Caliber 01, a manufacture movement designed for maximum precision, reliability, and functionality. First released in 2009, it is one of the most highly regarded chronograph movements in the industry. As with all of Breitling’s mechanical calibers, each one has achieved the rigorous COSC certification for accuracy within -4 and +6 seconds per day.

 

Just as grueling is Breitling’s own in-house 16-year-aging equivalent that includes shock testing (approx. 60,000 shocks at 500 G), crown testing (more than 100,000 crown winds), winding of the oscillating weight (3,456,000 weight turns) and chronograph pusher testing (approx. 5,840 start-stop-reset engagements).

 
The latest iteration of the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 found in the new Premier chronograph was redesigned in 2022 and features a trimmer profile and more compact oscillating weight that can be admired through the transparent sapphire-crystal caseback. The movement comes with a five-year warranty and provides an approximate 70-hour power reserve. In keeping with Willy’s desire to marry usability with elegance, the Premier now comes with a 100 m (10 bar) water resistance.

 

To create the design of the new Premier, Breitling preserved distinctive vintage-Premier design details, including the smooth fixed bezel, twin-register dial, streamlined rectangular pushers, and applied Arabic numerals. At 42 mm, the case diameter is slightly larger than the 40 mm found on the existing B09 (manual-wind) models. The tone-on-tone subdials with chronograph minutes at 3 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock lend a polished style, while new dial shades in salmon, blue, green, black, and cream add a contemporary twist to the stainless-steel models. A further variation in 18K red gold features a classic cream dial. The watches come on a choice of classic alligator leather strap or sleek 7-row metal bracelet.


The premier’s journey
 

revealed in a new book  
 

The launch of the new Premier B01 Chronograph 42 coincides with the publication of Premier Story, part three of the Watch Stories series that chronicles some of the world’s most celebrated timepieces. Author Fred Mandelbaum, Breitling’s official brand historian and the world’s foremost Premier collector, guides readers through Willy Breitling’s ultimately successful (but often tumultuous) quest to take the humble chronograph out of the aircraft cockpit and onto the wrists of the world’s style-setters — a journey that began 80 years ago.

 
“As Breitling’s historian, I’ve been living the wildest dreams of any passionate collector,” says author Fred Mandelbaum. “For this book, I was granted unprecedented access to the Breitling company archives and, through Gregory Breitling, son of founding-father Willy Breitling, was privileged to gain access to the family collection of watches, documents, photographs, and a wealth of personal memories.”


Illustrated in exquisite photography, including rarely-before-seen vintage watches, Premier Story not only provides an account of the Premier’s history, but also offers invaluable resources for collectors on how to authenticate vintage models, along with how to date pieces by hands- shape, logo, and serial number. A chapter on calibers reveals the evolution of the Premier movements from 1943 to 2023, with content connected by QR code to videos of the intricate mechanisms in action. Premier Story is a fascinating — and exceptionally practical — deep dive into one of history’s great watches.

Premier Story (CHF 59.00) is published by the watch book source Watchprint and is available for purchase at watchprint.com.

 


About Breitling
 

 
 

Founded in 1884, Breitling is a leading Swiss watchmaker. The innovative company invented the modern chronograph and pioneered the navigational tool watch. Today, it’s still breaking new ground as a casual, inclusive, and sustainable luxury brand with more than 200 industrial- loft-inspired retail locations around the world. Breitling’s collections center around air, land, and sea pursuits, all captured in the brand’s unmistakable modern-retro style. The exceptional quality of every watch movement is confirmed by its status as a COSC-certified chronometer, and the brand remains one of only a handful of independent watchmakers to produce its own manufacture calibers. Combining classic watchmaking with the latest innovations, Breitling is a company with history and one ahead of its time.

Breitling
Premier B01
Chronograph 42

Technical characteristics


References :AB0145221B1P1, AB0145221B1A1, AB0145171C1P1, AB0145171C1A1, AB0145331K1P1, AB0145331K1A1, AB0145371L1P1, AB0145371L1A1, AB0145211G1P1 or AB0145211G1A1
Movement :Calibre Manufacture Breitling 01
Self-winding mechanical, bidirectional with ball bearing
Diameter :30 mm
Thickness :7.2 mm
Power reserve :Approximately 70 hours
Components :334
Frequency :28,800 a/h or 4 hertz
Chronograph :olumn-wheel, vertical clutch
¼th second
30-minute and 12-hour totalizer
Affichage :Heures, minutes, secondes
Guichet de date
Certification :COSC-certified
Case :Stainless steel
Diameter :42 mm
Thickness :13.6 mm
Height :50.03 mm (upper lug tip to lower lug tip)
Water resistance :Up to 10 bar (100 meters)
Glass :Cambered sapphire
Glareproofed on both sides
Case back :Screwed steel, sapphire crystal /td>
Crown :on-screw-locked
Two gaskets
Lunette :Fixe
Dial :Black, blue, salmon, green or cream with tone-on-tone chronograph counters
Super-LumiNova® luminescent hour and minute hands
Bracelet :Black, gold-brown, or brown alligator leather strap
or stainless-steel seven-row bracelet with a
Buckle :Folding buckle (22/18 mm)
or butterfly clasp
 

Breitling
Premier B01
Chronograph 42

Technical characteristics


References :RB0145371G1P1 or RB0145371G1R1
Movement :Calibre Manufacture Breitling 01
Self-winding mechanical, bidirectional with ball bearing
Diameter :30 mm
Thickness :7.2 mm
Power reserve :Approximately 70 hours
Components :334
Frequency :28,800 a/h or 4 hertz
Chronograph :olumn-wheel, vertical clutch
¼th second
30-minute and 12-hour totalizer
Affichage :Heures, minutes, secondes
Guichet de date
Certification :COSC-certified
Case :18K red gold
Diameter :42 mm
Thickness :13.6 mm
Height :50.03 mm (upper lug tip to lower lug tip)
Water resistance :Up to 10 bar (100 meters)
Glass :Cambered sapphire
Glareproofed on both sides
Case back :Screwed steel, sapphire crystal /td>
Crown :on-screw-locked
Two gaskets
Lunette :Fixe
Dial :Cream with tone-on-tone chronograph counters
Super-LumiNova® luminescent hour and minute hands
Bracelet :Brown alligator leather strap
or 18K red gold seven-row bracelet
Buckle :18K red gold folding buckle (22/18 mm)
or butterfly clasp
 
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